Sewing Basics Part II – Closures
This week we continue our look at sewing basics. It is important to select the right fabric for the style you want, or to select an appropriate design for a particular fabric you like. Once that is done and the planning for the garment construction begins, a most critical element is the closure.
The closure allows us to get in and out of the garments with ease, but must complement or enhance the design. It may be totally concealed so as not to distract, or it may feature in or support the design. So as you assess the design, the planning for closure is first about how you will get in and out of your garment with ease, and then how this functional aspect will work with the design.
Closures include:
* Zippers: these may be either concealed or decorative. Concealed types are unseen but regular zipper types usually have the seams for their insertion visible. This is so with trousers with a front zipper and fly, for example. Decorative zippers were a recent trend and may still be used without looking off-trend if a new design is applied.
* Buttons: the types and methods vary significantly, and are too many to feature in this article. Store attendants and trimming stores are usually very helpful with clients so the selection matches the garment perfectly. And fabric-covered buttons in your fashion fabric are also available at some trimmings stores.
* Hooks and snaps: while sometimes used as the sole closure, these are often supporting or reinforcing closures, such as hooks at the tops of zippers.
* Ties and lacing: a wrap dress is an example of a closure using a tie: a bustier that is laced up is an example of the latter.
When selecting closures, in addition to the style consideration, the weight of the fabric is very important. For example:
* some very lightweight fabrics may not do well with zippers which tend to be heavier and could distort the line or alter the garment shape at that segment;
* Buttonhole sizes need to be carefully considered for fabric weight. A very small button and buttonhole may be hard to manipulate on a heavy fabric, while on a light fabric a wide buttonhole may gape in addition to the weight of the button pulling on the fabric. So it is wise to use smaller buttons for light fabrics;
* Invisible/concealed zippers may be too light for heavy fabrics.
If closure selection or application is intimidating or seems daunting, remember to ask for assistance or just design by trying to avoid them altogether. Fabrics with stretch that will allow you to get in and out, or style features such as a wide neck are options.
On the other hand, incorporate the closures in the design and get inspiration from decorative closures.