THERE is nothing more essential to our Jamaican experience than that first bite of a piping-hot patty in a brown paper bag. Over the years the patty may have changed shape and filling but one thing remains true: it’s the favourite lunch- on-the-go for every Jamaican, from every walk of life.

Along the way, we discovered that we have a very personal family connection to this favoured Jamaican fast food that dates as far back as 1929. Martha Mathilda Briggs, our paternal great-grandmother, was, in fact, one of the first commercial patty-makers in Jamaica. Great-Grandma Briggs was born in Cuba to Jamaican parents, and she had eight children. She was an ambitious woman, starting out as a domestic worker who soon branched out and opened a popular restaurant called the Royal Café on Barry Street, next to the offices of noted law firm Myers and Fletcher. The year was 1929 and it is a fact that all of the well-known barristers of the day, including Norman Manley himself, used to dine daily at her establishment for lunch. She was an innovator and a non-traditionalist who refused to follow the established “rules” about what women could do. It was even whispered that she used to enjoy a day at the races once in a while. What shame, indeed!

The commercial patty business grew out of the Barry Street location and eventually moved to Cross Roads at the top of Retirement Road, where it remained for many years. The Briggs Restaurant and Ice Cream Gardens opened its doors on Friday, March 20, 1936 opposite Empire Grocery, boasting that it was open to patrons all night for late suppers, cold beers, ice cream, teas, cakes, and their specialty, Briggs Crisp Crust Beef Patties (served hot, of course). In 1930s Jamaica, Briggs patties were famously described as “uptown patties”.

Charles Hyatt, in his memoir When Me Was a Boy, states the case quite clearly:

“WHEN ME WAS A LIKKLE BOY — there was some things that if anybody did tell me that them wouldn’t be around for us to enjoy today ah woulda tell them that them mad. A Briggs patty? Now plenty people use to swear by Bruce’s patty, but me did prefer Briggs. Bruce’s an Briggs was two establishments situated in Cross Roads an did face one another from either side of the beginning of Retirement Road. The two place use to sell patty… Them time Golding patty never start yet or if it did start it was still inna a patty pan downtown inna rum bar pon the counta. No, Briggs an Bruce’s patty was uptown story… While every other patty that did wort’ him name was sellin’ fi fourpence, Bruce’s and Briggs patty was sixpence. So when yuh buy them patty deh is spen’ yuh a spen’ y’know.”

Hyatt, Charles (2007-02-28). When Me Was a Boy (Kindle Locations 1691-1699). University of the West Indies Press. Kindle Edition.

In honour of Ma Briggs we share with you some modern and easy recipes for gourmet cocktail patties. Make up a batch and keep them in your freezer for an anytime snack or quick and delicious hors d’oeuvres.

Editor’s note: Michelle Rousseau and her sister Suzanne are epicurean adventurists and self-avowed Caribbean-ophiles. Their show, Two Sisters and a Meal, airs Sundays at 5:30 on TVJ with repeats on Tuesday at 9:30. Their first book, Caribbean Potluck, will be published in May by Kyle Books, UK and their web series Island Potluck can be viewed at www.twosistersandameal.com