Pop into any modern mainstream restaurant today (from the USA to Canada to the UK and all points in between) and you will more than likely find jerk, or some version thereof, on the menu. And while we often lament that the perception that Caribbean food is only about jerk limits global awareness about the versatility and range of our cuisine, we could never dare to negate the amazing impact that this little spice has had on the world. In fact, there is no other ‘seasoning mix’ in the global culinary landscape, except perhaps for the oft incorrectly touted Indian seasoning that we know as curry powder (which is actually a blend of spices including turmeric, mustard seed and fenugreek) that can claim to have journeyed as far and wide as the delectable blend of spices that make up Jamaican jerk.

From an intellectual perspective, the word jerk has always fascinated us. It’s a noun (let’s go get some jerk), a verb (I’m going to jerk some pork) and an adjective (I love jerked chicken). Now, while we know this is not GSAT 101, we cannot help but contemplate the prevalence of the word in the local vernacular and question whether its easy adaptation is an indication of the importance and the cultural influence it commands both locally and globally.

The process of jerk was made famous by the Maroons, but originates from the Taino Indians who utilised a seasoning and cooking technique called charqui. It has been speculated that the term jerk originates from the Spanish word charqui, which loosely translates into old English as ‘jirk’. Charqui is described as seasoned dried pieces of meat and the verb “jerking” evolved from the practice of poking holes into the meat to allow for the spices to soak in. It is said that the art of jerking meat developed under the Tainos as a means of preservation; meat would be seasoned and allowed to dry over a low fire in order to preserve it for long journeys (think of the familiar beef jerky).

The history of maroonage in Jamaica began in the mid-17th century, long before the introduction of sugar cultivation and the subsequent importation of slaves as an economic activity under British rule. In fact, the first Maroons were actually the former slaves of Spanish settlers who were freed when their masters escaped the island while it was under British attack in 1655. These freed slaves fled to the hills and joined mountain communities of Tainos forming the first Maroon settlements. It was the Maroons, however, who perfected what we know as jerk today which, quite frankly, appears to be a hybrid of the Spanish technique of barbacoa (in which a hole would be dug in the ground and meat buried with hot coals and allowed to slowly cook over 48 hours), and the Taino technique of seasoning and preserving meats called charqui. Wild hog would be hunted, seasoned with jerk to preserve it, wrapped in banana leaves and slow-cooked underground in a barbacoa or jerk pit filled with smoking wood. This cooking technique suited the Maroons well; always in constant hiding from the British militia, they utilised the technique of cooking underground as a way of hiding the smoke and thus evidence of their location. The slow smoking and the combination of seasoning gave the pork an incredible depth of flavour and resulted in the well-seasoned and juicy meat that we know as jerk today. Jerk seasoning typically contains pimento and Scotch bonnet but has been known to contain cinnamon, escallion, nutmeg, thyme, salt and garlic; for that extra kick, orginal Maroon-style jerk recipes also include native wild bushes like pepper elder and wild ginger.

It is impossible to complete a modern-day exploration of jerk without visiting the first company to bottle and export a commercial version of jerk seasoning. Walkerswood, the sleepy laid-back community tucked away in the hills of St Ann, is the birthplace and namesake of the first commercially bottled jerk seasoning to come out of Jamaica. With its factory located within the same community, Walkerswood is now a global brand that has a range of products far more expansive than the four jerk sauces they initially became known for. Their entire product line is truly a pantry staple and now includes everything from hot sauces, to seasoning mixes, preserves, chutneys and condiments.

With over 40 years of experience, Walkerswood has managed to successfully bottle the essence of Caribbean flavour, perfecting the art and science of over 20 innovative yet traditional sauces and seasonings. Walkerswood began as a grass-roots, community initiative and perfectly embodies the concept of cottage industry as the business was developed as a means of providing the rural community with job opportunities. They hold true to their origins by maintaining a vibrant engagement within the community, from factory employees to local farmers who supply fresh produce. Even the label was designed by local chef, author, teacher and art enthusiast Virginia Burke, and carefully conceptualised to be in alignment with the product for which it was designed. A journey through this factory and community reinforced the idea that there is simply no stopping this 100% authentic Jamaican brand. Because, know this, Walkerswood embodies 100% authentic Jamaican flavour, from jerk to preserves, it’s a product born from the love of community and country; not only should we be very proud but it is a product that should definitely hold a place of honour in the pantry of every Jamaican home.

Tune in next week Sunday as we make our way down memory lane for a super-sweet episode of Two Sisters and a Meal, 5:30 pm on TVJ. Look forward to seeing you!

TWO SISTERS RECIPE CORNER…

Jerked Sausage and Plantain Skewers

Yields: 6 servings

Ingredients

1 pack Caribbean Passion Jerked Sausages (cut into 2″ pieces)

4 medium ripe plantains, cut into 2″ pieces

BBQ sauce of choice

Skewers

Method

Thread jerked sausage and plantain alternately onto skewers.

Pre-heat oven to 325°F or if preferred, prepare on grill.

Lightly brush loaded skewers with BBQ sauce. Broil in oven or grill, baste repeatedly until sausages caramelise and get sticky. Serve immediately.