WE all desire to have even skin, one which is the same tone and free from blemishes. As an aesthetician, I see clients every day trying to battle skin discolouration and I have made it my point of duty to find the best option for them.

Treating skin discolouration or hyperpigmentation is a complex and sometimes frustrating process. I am always faced with the challenge of what direction I will take to achieve a brighter, more even skin tone for my clients. Lasers, chemical peels, mechanical resurfacers, hydroquinone, or no hydroquinone? Are natural ingredients going to be effective? The truth is, any of these options can be impactful on the right individual.

The basics of pigmentation

The varieties of hyperpig­mentation that I most likely see in my treatment room are either from an intrinsic (hormonal) source, like melasma, or extrinsic (external) source like those from scars or the sun. Doing an extensive consultation, a skin analysis, as well as taking lifestyle habits into consideration, is just the beginning. Results are contingent upon identifying the type of pigmentation.

Having the proper tools and recommending a diligent home-care routine is most necessary when tackling this common skin concern.

To break it down simply, ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a trigger in activating melanin production (the process of making colour). When exposed to UV radiation, the body will produce more melanin to create a protective barrier. This expresses more pigment and thickens the stratum corneum. The process is similar when you experience a physical blow or a healing skin lesion. Melanin (colour) production is catalysed by tyrosinase (an enzyme), which produces a pigment change resulting in a tan.

Treatments to inhibit melanin formation

Lasers, chemical peels, microdermabrasion, hydroquinone and natural ingredients are all able to improve discolouration. Each option is unique in their own right, and that’s why I explore all options with my clients to find the treatment best for them.

Lasers (Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation)

Lasers (Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation)

Hyperpigmentary disorders, especially melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, are best treated with lasers. Laser lights are able to penetrate deeper in the layers of the skin to create some changes in the melanocytes. With the advent of laser technology, the treatment options have increased, especially for dermal or mixed melasma.

Choosing the appropriate laser and the correct setting is vital in the treatment of melasma. The use of lasers should be restricted to cases unresponsive to topical therapy or chemical peels. Appropriate maintenance therapy should be selected to avoid relapse of melasma

Chemical peel

Chemical peel

A chemical peel is a treatment in which an acid solution is used to remove the damaged outer layers of the skin. In performing chemical peels, a licensed aesthetician will apply alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and trichloroacetic acid (TCA).

Typically administered as a facial peel, a chemical peel enhances and smoothes the texture of the skin. It is an effective treatment for facial blemishes, wrinkles, and uneven skin pigmentation. They exfoliate the outer layers of dead skin, revealing a new skin layer with improved tone, texture, and colour.

In addition to full facial rejuvenation, certain types of skin peels can also be used for spot treatments or rejuvenate skin elsewhere on the body.

Microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion

Microdermabrasion treatment has been gaining popularity as they are known to provide quick results for skin lightening, removing dark marks and bringing freshness and youthfulness to the skin. Doing it the right way can provide effective results in a very short time frame. The treatment is also rendered as one of the safest and promising treatments for skin lightening and other mild skin issues.

The procedure provides desired results by removing top layer of skin containing dead skin cells. The cells are removed using gentle abrasion using crystal or diamond tips. Microdermabrasion procedure can help people to get rid of age spots, wrinkles, blemishes, fine lines, and other small issues related to skin. You can expect to see some results after concluding your first session of microdermabrasion. But, to achieve the best result from this procedure, you should try to perform a few microdermabrasion sessions.

Hydroquinone

Hydroquinone

Let’s face it, hydroquinone is one the more effective methods of lightening fast and effectively. Over the years this ingredient has been quite controversial, as abuse of this ingredients has led to it being banned in several countries due to misuse.

Hydroquinone over the counter is usually 0.5 to two per cent in concentrate and not meant to be used at any time over a two-month period. Concentrations of 2 per cent or higher are available by prescription and are for treating stubborn areas that are significantly discoloured from the rest of the body. Any misuse of the ingredient will lead to rebound hyperpigmentation, especially if not paired with a sunscreen containing UVA and UVB protection.

Natural ingredients

L-ascorbic Acid: Lemon juice and orange peels are natural skin bleaching agents. They contain lots of vitamin C, which plays an important role in producing the collagen fibres that help support your skin and keep it firm. When applied topically, vitamin C has been shown to slow down hyperactive melanocytes. These are the cells that produce melanin in the basal layers of the skin, which causes the skin to “tan” or become darker.

Kojic acid: A white crystalline powder derived from a fungus in Asia, kojic acid has long been used in Japan as a natural alternative to hydroquinone and is very effective at reducing skin discolouration. It works by inhibiting the function of tyrosinase, the protein responsible for producing melanin.

Liquorice Extract: The juice derived from the roots of the liquorice plant has long been used in Chinese medicine as a treatment for all kinds of skin ailments. In the early 1990s, Japanese scientists identified the compound glabridin in liquorice, which absorbs UVA and UVB rays and acts as a powerful and effective skin-whitening element. It also acts as an antioxidant and is suitable for sun-damaged or sensitive skin.

Studies have shown that liquorice can inhibit the melanin-producing enzyme tyrosinase by as much as 50 per cent – and without damaging skin cells. Licorice extract is effective in treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (including dark spots); it can also be used to reverse the damage caused by acne scars and contains anti-inflammatory properties that help soothe the skin and reduce redness.

Bearberry: This ingredient comes from the leaves of the plant rather than the fruit. Bearberry or beargrape is used as an astringent in many cosmetics and contains alpha arbutin, which is known to lighten the skin fast.

Arbutin has been proven to effectively lighten freckles, dark spots, and other skin discolourations. Studies have found that a one per cent alpha arbutin concentration have a “skin-lightening effect”, even greater than the same concentration of hydroquinone.

Bearberry extract is also useful because it contains sun-protection filters that may help to reduce the amount of “tanning” experienced after sun exposure, thereby slowing or reversing signs of ageing on the skin.

Mulberry extract: The white mulberry tree is native to China and has been found to have many health benefits. In addition to preventing heart disease, cholesterol and diabetes, it can also help to whiten the skin.

White mulberry extract is a natural inhibitor of the enzyme tyrosinase. This enzyme triggers the production of melanin (brown pigment) in the skin. Studies have established that white mulberry and paper mulberry are both effective skin-whitening agents and are suitable for skin care. The study found that a 0.4 per cent concentration of mulberry extract reduced tyrosinase activity by 50 per cent.

Vitamin B3: Vitamin B3, or niacinamide, has been shown to reduce the production of melanin and acts as an effective skin-lightening agent when added to skin creams. When applied topically, vitamin B helps the skin to retain moisture, making it feel softer and smoother and reducing fine lines.

Skin discolouration or hyperpigmentation can affect us in ways that inhibit how we interact with others and affect the choices in the clothes we wear. It can significantly affects our self-esteem and restrict social encounters. With the above-mentioned treatments, getting clear skin is easier than once before.

Michelle Vernon is a licensed aesthetician who operates the Body Studio Skincare establishment, located at 23 Central Plaza, Kingston 10. She may be reached at telephone 908-0438 or 684-9800, Instagram@bodystudioskincare, Website: www.bodystudioskincare.com