The evolving landscape of Northern Argentine wines, particularly those hailing from the enchanting Calchaquí Valleys, is a testament to the dynamic nature of winemaking in the region. While the traditional allure of concentrated and superripe wines still holds sway, a burgeoning cohort of producers is redefining the narrative with a focus on freshness and lightness, offering a new interpretation of the high-altitude desert nestled amidst the majestic Andes. At the forefront of this paradigm shift is Agustín Lanús, named “Winemaker Revelation of the Year” in Descorchados 2024 Argentina rankings, a visionary young producer whose journey from the plains of Buenos Aires to the rugged expanse of the Calchaquí Valleys epitomises the spirit of exploration and innovation that characterises this new wave of winemaking.

Arriving in the Calchaquí Valleys around 2013, Lanús swiftly recognised the untapped potential of the region, realising that his destiny lay amidst its breathtaking landscapes and ancient vineyards. In 2014, he and his long-time friend, international entrepreneur David Galland, embarked on an adventure that would intertwine their shared passions for long-distance horseback riding and fine wine. Their journey began amidst the breathtaking landscapes of the Andes, where the rugged terrain and high-altitude vineyards of Cafayate, Argentina, would soon become the backdrop for their remarkable collaboration. United by a love of exploration and a deep appreciation for the intricacies of winemaking, Lanús and Galland set out to create something truly exceptional and, from the heart of Cafayate in the Salta province, they established Agustín Lanús Wines.

At the core of their winemaking philosophy lies a commitment to quality and authenticity which sees them seeking to harness the essence of the Andean landscape in every bottle they produce. The vineyards of Cafayate are renowned for their extreme altitude and rugged terrain, characteristics that impart a distinctive character to the grapes grown there. Blessed with abundant sunlight, cool nights, and minimal rainfall, these vineyards offer the perfect conditions for producing wines of exceptional depth and complexity. It is amidst this rugged beauty that Lanús and Galland found their inspiration, channeling the essence of the Andes into every aspect of their winemaking process.

With vineyards situated between 1,700 and 2,750 metres above sea level, Lanús and Galland relentless pursuit of excellence sets their wines apart, elevating them within the ranks of the Argentina wine scene. Central to Lanús’s winemaking philosophy is a reverence for the land and a commitment to preserving its rich heritage. In his quest for authenticity, he has made it his mission to revive and rejuvenate old, neglected vineyards of native grape varieties, recognizing their intrinsic connection to the land and their potential to produce wines of unparalleled complexity and character. The winery has produced captivating wines from some ancient vineyards, perched at an astonishing altitude of 2,750 meters, that have vines over a century old. The resulting wines, born from the union of ancient vines and modern craftsmanship, are a revelation that offer but a glimpse into the untamed wilderness of Northern Argentina.

Thursday Food explores five bottles from the bodega of Agustín Lanús, 2024 Descorchados Argentina Enólogo Revelación del Año (Winemaker Revelation of the Year):

Aguayo Malbec is an elegant example of a high-altitude wine: complex and fresh from the natural acidity found in grapes grown at elevation. This 100 per cent varietal is an old-world style wine with a long finish in the mouth, evoking a sense of dried cherries and black currants, with rosehip floral notes and a soft mint finish.

Cumpa Torrontés is a 100 per cent varietal that is light and fresh in the mouth with well-balanced acidity. Its colour is golden with greenish reflections and it exhibits aromas of floral and citrus with a mineral touch.

Bad Brothers ToVio Torrontés-Viognier is produced under the Bad Brothers label and comprises 75 per cent Torrontés and 25 per cent Viognier from vines grown in the Calchaquí Valley. The wine offers an excellent balance of acidity and freshness with floral overtones typical of high altitude vineyards. It also delivers a rich, expansive palate replete with flavours of stone fruit and oranges while having an intense yellow colour with hints of green-gold.

Bad Brothers Premium Malbec, also produced under the Bad Brothers label, is a 100 per cent Malbec that is a deep violet colour, expressing aromas of red fruits, violet, rosehip and fig. In the mouth, it has a very full body with nice acidity and round tannins.

Sunal Ilógico Criolla Chica comprises 100 per cent Criolla Chica grapes, grown on vines located between 2,200 and 2,700 metres above sea level in Salta province. It is a soft and very aromatic red wine, where red fruits, cherry, dates as well as dried roses prevail along with a slight herbal sting. This wine has a unique identity in addition to having a freshness, elegance and shocking complexity.

In Lanús’s wines, we find not only a reflection of the unique terroir of Northern Argentina but also a testament to the indomitable spirit of exploration and discovery that defines the region. With each bottle, Lanús invites us on a journey of exploration, encouraging us to savour the essence of the Andean landscape and experience the magic of one of South America’s wildest terroirs.