PARIS, France (AFP) — Asian e-commerce giant Shein’s decision to set up shop in a historic Parisian department store has ruffled feathers in the fashion capital.

Anger has been boiling since Shein announced last week that it would open its first permanent physical store in November at BHV Marais, an iconic building that has stood across from Paris City Hall since 1856.

The move prompted some French brands to announce they would leave BHV Marais, but the department store had already been losing tenants over late payments.

Aime cosmetics line co-founder Mathilde Lacombe, whose brand was among those that decided to leave following Shein’s announcement, said she was “deeply shocked” by the deal.

BHV trade unions also led calls on Friday for strike action to protest Shein’s arrival, warning of a “short-term threat to the survival of the department store.”

Critics fear that Shein — whose meteoric rise has been a bane for traditional retail fashion companies — will further hurt stores in France that have had to lay off staff or close.

Founded in China and now based in Singapore, the fast-fashion giant sells a wide variety of products at ultra-competitive prices.

But it has also been under global scrutiny over its business model’s impact on the environment and labour conditions at its textile factories.

“Opposite the Paris Mayor’s office, they will create a new Shein Megastore that — after having destroyed dozens of French brands — could flood our market even more massively with disposable products,” said the trade association for French ready-to-wear women’s clothing companies, the FFPAPF.

The European Commission is investigating Shein over risks linked to illegal products, while EU lawmakers last month approved legislation aimed at curbing fast fashion’s environmental impact.

“Shein’s arrival goes against our convictions,” former French environmental transition minister Christophe Bechu told AFP.

– ‘Honouring’ the fashion capital –

Shein has spun its entry into physical retail in France as a homage to the country and its central place in fashion.

“By choosing France as the place to trial physical retail, we are honouring its position as a key fashion capital and embracing its spirit of creativity and excellence,” said Donald Tang, Shein’s executive chairman.

“It is fitting that this journey starts in Paris, at BHV — the birthplace of modern retail,” he added.

T