What your type of acne is trying to tell you

IF you are plagued by constant acne flare-ups, your skin might be trying to tell you something. The message might be that you are simply using the wrong type of products on your skin, or something more difficult to catch — such as a spike in your hormone levels. Understanding what your acne is trying to tell you requires an understanding of what causes acne in the first place.

Odessia Benjamin, aesthetician and founder of Hollywood Glow Beauty Studio at 8 Hillview Avenue, told All Woman that although many people feel as if acne is punishment for having dirty skin, this is not so.

“Acne is a skin condition which occurs when the pores or hair follicles become clogged with oil, dead skin cells and bacteria. It not caused by having dirty skin or by not cleansing often enough. In fact, overwashing the skin can irritate the skin, consequently worsening acne. However, it is highly recommended that the skin be cleansed at least two times daily,” she said.

She explained that there are four main types of acne that affect Jamaicans.

“Hormonal acne (Acne Vulgaris) is the most common type of acne, and it is developed due to increasing androgen levels in the body, thereby triggering an increase in sebum production and increasing activity of an acne-causing bacteria called Propionibacterium acnes (P.acnes),” she shared.

“This type of acne is most common in teenagers undergoing puberty, and pregnant women who have an increase in progesterone.”

She added: “Acne Rosacea involves persistent redness and flushing. Its trademark symptoms include small, red, pus-filled bumps on the skin during flare-ups. It is also characterised by visible blood vessels especially along the centre of the face, nose and cheeks,” she added.

The third type of acne, Acne Mechanica, Benjamin said, is cause by constant friction, pressure or heat on the skin.

“It is characterised by small bumps and occurs in situations where the skin is continuously rubbing against an object, such as wearing hats, headbands and helmets or even carrying backpacks,” she noted.

The fourth type of acne is no stranger to Jamaican men.

“Pseudofolliculitis barbae (often referred to as ingrown hair or razor bumps) is a condition of the beard or chin area and is most common in African ethnicities,” she said. “The problem arises when very curly hair grows back into the skin causing inflammation.”

Knowing what kind of acne you have will point you in the right direction when seeking treatment for it.

Benjamin said that topical antibiotics such as Clindamycin or Erythromycin paired with extraction treatments have been shown to be very effective in treating hormonal acne, while identifying and avoiding flare-up triggers coupled with the use of anti-inflammatory gels is best in treating acne rosacea.

“Acne mechanica is often treated by using over-the-counter salicylic acid or wearing certain cotton garments as guard where necessary,” Benjamin said.

“In the past, salicylic acid based toners were used to treat [ingrown hair]; however, laser hair removal and a topical toner called PFB Vanish has proven to produce spectacular results in ridding the skin of this type of acne,” she shared.

Benjamin also noted that while most cosmeceuticals will not clog pores, your acne might be telling you that your lotion is too oily, or your oily hair products are coming in contact with your face.

“And though many people seem to believe that consuming certain foods may trigger acne, research hasn’t found any substantial link between the two. However, it is advised that you consume a healthy diet in order to maintain good general health,” she said.

She recommends over-the-counter rinses, toners, and serums to her clients.

“The following ingredients have proven to be very effective cleansers — salicylic acid, resorcinol, and alcohol. The use of a vitamin C toner and serum is also recommended. Serums are excellent moisturisers that are not oil based,” she advised.

“For mild to moderate acne, simple lifestyle changes such as cleansing with a mild glycolic soap and utilising a vitamin C toner can significantly help with minimising flare-ups. It is also advised that you stay hydrated and never pop acne blemishes with your fingernails as this will introduce more bacteria to the skin.”

She emphasised, though, that there is no one-size-fits-all treatment for acne.

“It is recommended that people affected by acne seek professional advice about various clinical facials and topical treatments that are available,” she said.