Are gel manicures dangerous?

A recent study out of the United States is raising questions about the safety of nail dryers used in salons in gel applications, as it shows that radiation emitted by ultraviolet (UV) nail polish dryers can both damage DNA and permanently engrave mutations on human skin.

The study, ‘DNA damage and somatic mutations in mammalian cells after irradiation with a nail polish dryer’, published January 2023 in the journal Nature Communications, was done on the premise that ultraviolet A light is commonly emitted by UV nail polish dryers, with recent reports suggesting that long-term use may increase the risk for developing skin cancer.

The effect of radiation emitted by UV nail polish dryers on the physiology and mutagenesis of cells was unclear before the study, authors Zhivagui, Hoda, Valenzuela et al from the University of California San Diego said, and their study showed that irradiation by UV nail polish dryers cause, among other things, high levels of reactive oxygen species, consistent with cell damage and mitochondrial dysfunction.

“In summary, this study demonstrates that radiation emitted by UV nail polish dryers can both damage DNA and permanently engrave mutations on…human foreskin fibroblasts, and human epidermal keratinocytes,” the authors said.

UV lights are used to dry and cure gel nail polish.

“Yes, UV lights used for gel polish can pose some risks if not used properly,” said aesthetician Nicola Meredith. “Prolonged or repeated exposure to UV radiation can increase the risk of skin damage, premature ageing, and potentially contribute to skin cancer. However, when used according to manufacturer instructions and with proper precautions like wearing UV-blocking gloves and eyewear, the risks can be minimised.”

Meredith admitted that the above suggestions aren’t practised as a rule by nail technicians, and suggested that LED lamps are also an alternative, as they emit less UV radiation compared to traditional UV lamps.

“Overall, while UV lights for gel polish can be safe when used responsibly, it’s essential to be aware of potential risks and take appropriate precautions to protect your skin and eyes,” she added.

To protect yourself when using gel polish UV lights, she recommends:

1) Wear UV-blocking gloves or apply sunscreen to your hands to shield them from UV exposure.

2) Use protective eyewear, like UV-blocking glasses, to shield your eyes from UV rays emitted by the lamp.

3) Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the gel polish and UV lamp to minimise exposure time.

4) Position the lamp at a safe distance from your skin to reduce direct exposure.

5) Limit the frequency of gel polish applications to minimise long-term UV exposure risks.

6) If you experience any discomfort or unusual skin reactions, consult a dermatologist.