Jamaica Observer Table Talk Food Awards judge for the parish of Portland Jon Baker unearths another culinary gem, Cynthia’s Restaurant on Winnifred Beach.

Cynthia and Painta have run this bar/restaurant combo on Winnifred beach for 16 years, feeding local Port Antonians who flock to the beach every holiday and weekend, the masses from Kingston who charter buses to come over, and large numbers of visitors from abroad, many of them repeat guests who have come to love the natural calm of the beach and Cynthia’s excellent Jamaican cuisine.

The pair started out with just a small shack and a wood fire on the beach, interrupted once by a fire in 2001, which destroyed the restaurant. The phoenix arose resplendent from the ashes, however, to the size it is today.

Since Cynthia’s recent feature on Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown CNN series, Painta says they get between five and 10 visitors each day ostensibly because of the show.

I have been visiting Winnifred’s for over 15 years and find it one of the most comfortable beaches in Jamaica; the natural relaxed and easy mix of tourists and locals is not found elsewhere on the island.

This ambience and free access to the beach have not been easy to maintain as the UDC has been trying for a number of years to take control and charge for access.

Since it is one of the last remaining free beaches in Jamaica, the local community, the small-holder cook shops and stalls have formed the Free Winnifred Beach campaign; Cynthia is a stalwart of this and the ambience of her restaurant is testament to its efficacy.

I recently bumped into Bob and Gail from Wisconsin, who have visited the beach every one of the 16 years the restaurant has been around. They made the ‘Lick ’em finger, Must come back’ sign and even made another for Cynthia’s when it was burned in the fire 14 years ago. Such is their affinity for the place.

There are two approaches to Winnifred’s: you can either take the picturesque fishing boat trip from the soon-to-be refurbished Blue Lagoon, or drive the longer and more rocky route down from Fairy Hill to the beach.

Either way, once you reach, head over to the western end for Cynthia’s pleasantly appointed beach bar, kitchen and restaurant laid out in local timber, some zinc and fine thatch roofing. Painted in patriotic colours of black, green and yellow sits a wooden bench, ready for you to enjoy a tasty meal that includes the catch of the day out of the Winnifred Bay, locally reared chicken and always fresh vegetable produce bought daily from Port Antonio’s nearby market.

The welcome is terrific: you are ushered to a bench and may find yourself sitting with foreigners from almost anywhere in the world or someone from just up the road.

Always smiling and chatty, Cynthia speedily takes your order; the menu is simple and oral, the order remembered and transmitted verbally to chef Painta, who goes straight into action over the coal stoves or pimento wood grill. There is no electricity on Winnifred beach so the cooking is excellently rustic and flavoursome.

Choose to have your chicken, fish or lobster (when in season) done pretty much any way. The steamed fish is excellent, although having eaten here countless times I would recommend every style of preparation: brown stew, fried, grilled — you name it.

The plates come with sides of roast breadfruit, plantain, callaloo, steamed cabbage, chopped raw vegetables or a simple salad. The chicken meals are also prepared to order.

You cannot go wrong. Just order any style and even if Cynthia does get your order mixed up — which she won’t — you will still be more than happy with her choice and will leave with satisfied taste buds.