Social networking site yelp.com has hailed Barrington’s Jamaican Kitchen the number one eating spot in Bakersfield, California. The website recently put together a list of must-try Jamaican eateries for each state and the restaurant celebrated for its jerk chicken, curry chicken, oxtail, plantains, and steamed cabbage to share a few of its menu options emerged the undisputed winner.

The establishment is owned by Barrington Lewis, who hails from Morant Bay, St Thomas, Jamaica. Thursday Food caught up with Lewis a week ago in his kitchen. He was delighted to share the good news and even more elated since it was the weekend of Boys’ & Girls’ Champs.

Coincidentally, Champs is where his story started. Lewis is not only a proud graduate of Vere Technical High School but also the 1983 Boys’ Champs triple jump champion. He was, too, a drum major and hails the school’s founder, the late Ben Francis, as the person who instilled in him the necessary discipline and self-confidence to not only excel as a drum major and school prefect, but to also cop a scholarship as a result of winning the triple jump at the Penn Relays. “I will forever hold Ben Francis in high esteem. He was one of the greats. I stand tall today because of him,” he said.

Barrington Anthony Lewis learned to cook by watching others. His stepmother, Miss Letty, expected dinner ready by evening, and he learned how to deliver. In school, he improved his cooking skills in programmes like the Scout Association of Jamaica and the Jamaica Combined Cadet Force. A culinary path was certainly not top of mind. “I was a top triple-jump athlete in high school, and my stellar performance got me a scholarship to Bakersfield College, US, in 1983.

“I made my mark in the US track community and placed second in the 1984 Olympic try-outs. I got a full ride to Oregon State in 1985, was inducted into the BC Hall of Fame in 1991, and later became a track and field coach at West High School in 2007,” he shared.

Lewis, married, started a family (he has three children) and worked as a quality control manager at Pepsi-Cola for 25 years. During the ensuing years he would cook and bring lunch for all, demonstrating his culinary skills at special occasions. The positive feedback from those who enjoyed his food led him to contemplate a small takeout business. He reckoned a window at a nearby coffee shop would be perfect. It would be a four-year wait and the advent of a major coffee chain before he’d be able to coat the building with the colours of the Jamaican flag: Black, green and gold.

“My primary business is takeout, but I have an area that seats about 12,” he said.

His clientele, a veritable melting pot of Californians, comes for the food but returns for the camaraderie and of course, more good food.

Lewis is a people person and loves learning about the lives of his customers. Indeed, 24 hours after the Yelp review his numbers moved from a daily average of 50 to 150. “When I got to work the next morning the line was wrapped around the block,” he said.

That was the beginning; there’d be more. Newspaper articles and TV interviews followed. “People would come by to congratulate me and of course to check out the food,” he said.

Not one to rest on his laurels Lewis ensures that his food exceeds expectations. “My ingredients are bought fresh at the nearby farmers’ market,” he explained.

There’s a secret ingredient, too, that he’s not about to share. That aside Lewis has become an unofficial ambassador for The Rock. “Customers have travelled to Jamaica because of my food. They return and we exchange (culinary) notes… I’m happy to report that oftentimes they prefer mine,” he adds with a chuckle.

As the clock inches closer to 11:00 am, customers start to arrive and orders begin coming in fast and furious. “Hail up everybody a yard,” he says. “Got to go! Hail up the students at Vere Tech! Tell them to honour the school’s motto: Knowledge, Skill, and Discipline.”

No better way, we reckon, to conclude our interview.

Barrington’s Jamaican Kitchen

Address: 4120 Ming Avenue, Bakersfield, CA, 93309

Opening hours: 11:00 am – 8:00 pm Tuesday – Sunday