Jamaica Observer Table Talk Food Awards judge Matthew Hogarth reviews Rocksteady Restaurant at S Hotel Kingston.

As part of my field visits as a Jamaica Observer Food Awards judge, I decided to revisit a familiar Kingston address: Rocksteady at S Hotel Kingston, still affectionately called Spanish Court by many of us. The restaurant is located at S Hotel Kingston, 1 St Lucia Avenue, Kingston 5, and may be contacted at 876-926-0000.

The location could hardly be more convenient for us. It is within walking distance of our office, and many of our overseas clients stay there when in Kingston. Over the years, it has become one of those easy, trusted places in the city where a meeting can become coffee, coffee can become lunch, and lunch can become a welcome pause in the middle of a full workday.

Perusing the menu at Rocksteady are MH&CO Chief Executive Liaison Officer Linnette Hopkins (left) and COO Lisa Hogarth. (Photo: Matthew Hogarth)

On this visit, I was joined by my wife, Lisa Hogarth, chief operating officer of our business group, and our chief executive liaison Officer Linnette Hopkins. For us, it was a rare weekday indulgence: Stepping away from the office, sitting down properly and allowing ourselves a little room to breathe.

The room itself has not changed dramatically over the years, and there is something rather pleasant about that. Rocksteady is not trying to be overly styled, theatrical or fashionable. It feels familiar, composed and quietly confident. The food presentation follows the same philosophy. The plating is clean and simple, with an emphasis on neatness and restraint rather than visual drama.

Lisa ordered the curried mutton, Linnette had the pan seared salmon, and I ordered the filet mignon. The reports on Lisa’s curried mutton, or “curry goat” as many Jamaicans would naturally call it, were very positive. It was quite good, well suited to the setting, and a welcome reminder that a hotel restaurant can serve local food without making it feel like a performance.

Linnette’s pan seared salmon was enjoyable as well. It was the kind of dish that works well for a business lunch: Light enough for the middle of the day, but still satisfying. It also captured Rocksteady’s broader approach to food, which is straightforward, polished and presented without unnecessary fuss.

Curry goat (Jamaica Observer Table Talk Food Awards judge Matthew Hogarth reviews The New Cellar 8.)Jamaica Observer Table Talk Food Awards judge Matthew Hogarth reviews The New Cellar 8.

My filet mignon was the dish with the most uneven execution. Although ordered medium, the steak arrived in parts: one piece closer to medium well, and the other effectively well-done. At US$58.60, it was the premium dish on the table, so the expectation on requested doneness was naturally higher. The flavour and presentation were not the issue; the inconsistency in temperature was.

We also had a glass of Casillero del Diablo Cabernet and two coffees. The coffee at Spanish Court has long been one of its quiet strengths, and that remained true on this visit. It is very good coffee, the kind that makes the hotel useful not only for lunch, but also for client catch-ups, quick meetings, and the occasional reset between obligations. The wine selection, however, could be more interesting, particularly among the wines offered by the glass. A hotel restaurant serving both local executives and overseas guests has room to show a little more personality there.

The bill, exclusive of GCT and before gratuity, was US$159.10.

Pan seared salmon (Photo: Matthew Hogarth)

Rocksteady remains a comfortable and useful Kingston dining room. It is not trying to dazzle, and perhaps that is part of its appeal. It knows what it is: Close, convenient, composed, and generally well-executed. For a weekday lunch with colleagues, clients, or, as in this case, a brief and much-needed break with family and team members, it continues to serve its purpose with quiet charm.

Rocksteady Restaurant at  S Hotel Kingston

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Address: 1 St Lucia Avenue,

Kingston 5

Opening Hours: Breakfast: 7:00 am – 10:00 am (Weekdays)

Breakfast: 7:00 am – 10:30 am (Weekends)

Lunch: 12:00 pm – 5:00 pm (Weekly)

Dinner: 5:30 pm – 10:30 pm (Weekly)

Tel: 876-926-0000

Jamaica Observer Table Talk Food Awards judge Matthew Hogarth