It’s a journey of some 30 miles from Kingston, through deep rural country. The roads are good, the turns deep and along the way we traverse lush high agricultural fields. We miss a turn, and stop to make enquiries.

The name Taylor immediately brings many persons to our assistance. In fact, a young man jumps into the van, finding it better to actually take us to Seaview Farm. We reverse, swing left and within minutes are at our destination. It has taken some time (perhaps too long) to discover where the finest marlin in the world is smoked.

Seaview Farm sits majestically on 40 acres and offers a breathtaking 180º scenic view (mist included) of Old Harbour to Bog Walk. The property was originally built in 1960 by Clifford and May Taylor. Their deaths in 1971 and 1982 respectively is perhaps when and how the Marlin story commenced; for son Howard (one of the six children) returned to Jamaica from Canada.

His love for fishing in his boat called Twiggy would yield formidable catches. A framed portrait inside the preparation area tells the tale. Fisherman Howard Taylor with his catch of a 295lb blue marlin. Fighting time: one hour 27 minutes and a line test of 80lbs. The inevitable question of what to do with such catches led him to experiment with a method of smoking first seen by Taylor during summer stays at Chapaquidick-Martha’s Vineyard, where the game warden would smoke blue fish and white marlin. The smoking method employed is a variation of the ‘hot process’, which is in common usage today for many products.

At Seaview, however, there was much experimentation – a total of two years would pass before it was felt by both Howard and Jane Taylor that it was ready for the world. The smooth, subtly smoked, delicate pink meat is served in the finest restaurants locally, in the Caribbean and at those North American haunts frequented by celebs in search of the exotic. Accolades have been many, and include the Jamaica Observer’s Table Talk Food Awards in 1999 for ‘Best New Food Item’.

The younger Taylors have also invested their time and talent, with Vanessa taking charge of the marketing and distribution aspects. Trips to Bermuda, Saint Lucia, Barbados and Grenada have been undertaken and the small cottage industry is now referred to as ‘Sea Spice’. Taylor’s son Rory has learnt and mastered the marlin secret, and takes us through the stages of fresh from sea, to being marinated with spices (all from the fertile property) to a secret recipe and slow-cooked over pimento wood. Huge bins of marinated marlin are stacked in the refrigerator.

Rory takes us to the smoke room where logs of marlin on bamboo racks (made by him) are smoked. The bamboo trees provide the wood, whilst the pimento, also from the property, is used to facilitate the smoking process. This takes an entire day. Nothing is rushed. Emphasis is on a superior product – a product referred to by foodies as the sushi of the region.

Marlin is then vacuum-packed, ready for the supermarkets. Attention to detail is never taken for granted, for the success of this marlin is due to its zesty flavour, smooth texture and absolute consistency. Vanessa spreads a beautiful table and we enjoy smoked marlin atop hummus, peppered jelly and home-made preserve on wholewheat bread and crackers.

The marlin shares table with other “bests” of the region: Red Stripe beer, soursop juice, passion juice and rum. We relax and fully embrace the magnificent view, cool clime, the smell of passion fruit, the sight of laden jackfruit trees and a thoroughly modern family, firmly committed to the land. The scene could quite easily be from the Napa Valley, a vineyard in France, or an olive vineyard in Italy. It’s a tale of continuity and excellence.

It is perhaps Jane who puts it in perfect perspective: “It is,” she opines, “as if Howard’s parents Clifford and May understood the importance of preparing the land for several generations: The types of trees planted, the herbs, the fruits, the very level of the land.” This is underscored by Vanessa, who recalls the long daily treks to Kingston for school. “I often wondered why we lived so far.today, though, I love it and miss it when I’m not here.” As we make the descent and take the sharp swing back to Kingston, it all feels good. The marlin story has indeed been told.