Caribbean Fashion Week 2010 sizzled and our local runway rockers truly raised the bar…here are a few of the looks we loved!

Ashley’s Got Attitude!

‘Divas live, cue the music please!’ That certainly resonated Sunday last at the National Indoor Sports Centre as singer-cum-designer Ashley Martin unveiled her first collection at Caribbean Fashion Week (CFW).

And a most formidable first attempt it was, complete with a sample of Dutty Wine, Tony Matterhorn’s 2006 breakout hit that fuelled the worldwide phenomenon.

A dash of dancehall, a splash of diva and a more than generous outpouring of sass gave way to the leggy Carla Campbell who opened the Attitude by Ashley Martin collection in a gorgeous white shearling dress with an asymmetrical neckline and adorned with a jewel-encrusted belt.

“My inspiration for this line was a woman’s body,” the designer told SO. “Women are all shapes and sizes and that’s just beautiful to me.”

The variation in body types inspired Martin to create a line that is not only flattering, but one that seeks to add style and flair without frou-frou.

“I wanted to bring out a woman’s animalistic charm, accentuate her assets,” she shared.

Martin’s goal to conceal flaws without sacrificing the ‘fab factor’ was certainly achieved: one need only marvel at the new designer’s flowing dresses, some beach-inspired, while others whispered touches of the Orient. Oversized bows, origami detailing, delicate embroidery and sparkles revealed the designer’s penchant for showbiz. Indeed, it harked back to Diana Ross in the movie Mahogany, only this time the setting was the Caribbean with a palette that featured sumptuous hues of blue, tangerine, yellow and magenta. There were, too, pops of animal print, feathers, flowers and oh yes… gems.

Décolletage, flounces and flowing hemlines stylishly added runway frisson that climaxed spectacularly with the designer’s pièce de résistance — a jaw-dropping mermaid silhouette, embellished with jewels and silk flowers. The creation, expertly interpreted by the gazelle that is Jaunel McKenzie, was accessorised by a peep-toe stiletto headpiece dipped in rhinestones – a brilliant nod to both pop culture and the avant-garde.

Keneea Linton: The Leading Lady

It wasn’t exactly a parade of little black dresses, but something about designer Keneea Linton’s well-edited 2010 collection spoke to the feisty-yet-feminine charms of Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly in Breakfast at Tiffany’s.

“The collection captured the timeless elegance of Hepburn with the clean cuts and sophisticated finish,” says Linton, who added that the theme of the presentation was “The Leading Lady”.

The opening piece was not only a nod to Old Hollywood – circa 1950 when the tailored, feminine pencil skirt and structured blouse were popular – but also paid homage to the fashion-forward sensibilities of US First Lady Michelle Obama, this in the delightful chartreuse design show-opener, swanned down the runway by the elegant Leah-Mari Guevara. Looks also came in nude, black and bold floral. Opulence came in luxurious silk shantung, antique silk and silk chiffon.

Linton added, “I also wanted to capture the sexy, glamorous style of Marilyn Munroe through the sultry lace detailing.” There was no denying that, as pencil skirts, lace and edgy sheaths dominated the runway while models strutted to the sound of Bitter:Sweet on Dirty Laundry and Lena on Satellite.

The air of sophistication the 16-piece collection brought, complete with its youthful irreverence, allowed the designer to satisfy the established ‘fashion set’ as well as those in search of an edgier style. Linton presented current trends like the sweetheart neckline, the puffed sleeve and cropped jacket. And true to form, the LBD bewitched on the stunning Carla Campbell as did its slinky floor-length counterpart, complete with décolletage and matching headscarf that sparkled as model Kimanee Wilson glided down the runway.

But Linton’s collection, though strong, still lacks the verve of an unbridled designer. Caution must now be thrown to the wind… the design component truly stretched, and Linton’s signature unleashed.

Uzuri: Opulence meets Organic

Inspired by their latest resort collection, ‘Jamaica Royale’, creative duo Karl Williams and Mark McDermoth brought drama to Caribbean Fashion Week Sunday last. Feathers, sequins and other embellishments adorned the exquisitely clad models as they ‘strutted their stuff’ on the catwalk during the Uzuri International segment.

Since 1998, Karl Williams and Mark McDermoth have been working as a team, creating masterpiece gowns for their clients. The veteran designers have been a staple on the CFW runway since its inception, only taking a brief hiatus in 2008 and 2009.

Patrons may not have realised the underlying theme throughout the Uzuri collection presented at the 2010 Caribbean Fashion Week. The collection showcased the ‘plantation lifestyle’, where the designers featured at the peasant class as well as the landed gentry. According to Mark McDermoth, the desire was to “juxtapose the opulent against the organic, and then use that to take it to a modern aesthetic.”

With that in mind their show featured peasant blouses, flowing frocks and fantastic gowns, all bearing the signature flair that Uzuri has come to be known for. And, as McDermoth rightly stated, “A trademark really sets you apart.” Swimwear was also an element incorporated into the Uzuri collection, with Nell ‘The Body’ Robinson sporting a lime-green embellished bikini with flowing fabric fitted to cuffs on her wrists. Oraine Barrett also sported beachwear in a leopard-print bikini with sequin and feather detailing.

As a surprise to patrons, two guest models appeared in the set on Sunday night. Prior to showing, the duo had already decided that they wanted to feature a celebrity guest during their piece, and decided on former model-turned-singer D’Angel. Upon hearing that Carissa Rosario (wife of singer Johnny Gill who was billed for CFW) needed a designer to dress her for her turn on the catwalk, they added her to their line-up, and put her in a sequinned minidress, with feathers at the hem, which fitted the model like a glove. Needless to say, the dress was purchased by Gill after the show, ostensibly for his wife’s next red carpet event.

With patrons disappointed that Trinidad’s Claudia Pegus was a no-show, Uzuri International stepped in to close and seamlessly delivered a truly show-stopping, mind-boggling collection that left many in awe.

Karl and Mark’s talent and attention to detail were unmistakable, and these two designers who have in the past stumbled many a time with flawed finishes can now lay claim to have conquered their demons. The collection unveiled Sunday last was without doubt a triumph, a couture collection that could pass muster in London, Paris, New York or Milan. We look forward to the world sitting up and truly taking notice, and for our other designers to note that the race has never been for the swift…

Biggy by Earl Turner

The future of dancehall remains in good hands, and if the recent collection unveiled on closing night at CFW by diminutive king of dancehall designer ‘Biggy’ Earl Turner is anything to go by, can only go from strength to strength. Biggy, who presented his 10th collection and who has influenced many an international designer’s interpretation of street style, added his inimitable insight and twist to a street jargon peculiar to The Rock and inspired by muses who are spotlight-obsessed and who have an uncanny knack of knowing just how to dazzle in his designs. Describing his collection as ‘international’ and then immediately retracting same: “We cyaan too say that because if we label it that and the next one madder, wah wi ah go call it?’ And therein lies the dilemma – daring to affix a label to a truly unique style from a designer who in his own words doesn’t “hold back, cannot be restricted and has to position himself for people to see where he’s headed, rather than where he is right now.”

Biggy’s focus this past decade has been getting to the top, “straight to the top”.

Biggy’s passion with denim, suede and climate-friendly fabrics continues. His latest obsession, though, is boots (footwear), which will now become a staple in his collection. “I am now creating footwear as well as accessories for couture pieces…you need the complete package to go global.” It’s no idle boast as the show opens and Jaunel bounces on stage in an intense ensemble that can only be described as ‘Lady Gaga encounters Earl ‘Biggy’ Turner. The form-fitting denim bodysuit complete with exaggerated shoulder pads and tipped with fuschia was complemented by matching shoes to boot… and a divine little clutch. Truly out-of-the-box, sophisticated yet edgy, Biggyamazing!

The frustration is that Biggy, (yes, even after the BBC feature) is just not global enough.

Julan by Juliette Dyke

The announcement Saturday of the Julan collection elicited loud cheers even before patrons glimpsed the very first design. For patrons who had never even heard the name, Julan’s collection was haunting, leaving many (SO included) wanting a closer look. There is no doubt that Dyke is a talented designer who uses her fascination with the Victorian era, a period she describes as “one of history’s most diverse periods and a very exciting time as well as the beginning of modern times when many artistic styles flourished”, to engage the discerning fashionista. What unfortunately worked against this eclectic collection was the lack of an objective eye to properly edit and walk the majority of models through the interpretation of each design. Thankfully, the more established runway habituées sensitively interpreted the luxurious, romantic lines of designs in silk shantung. Regrettably, save for Nicole Grey’s elegant use of the fan and Jaunel’s magnificent carriage – top hat and whip, other models seemed clueless; and let’s not even mention the parasols! These seemingly ‘small’ distractions in a collection this brilliant are jarring and must not be tolerated.

Dyke chose colours not because “they are trendy” but because they appealed to her. “I love pairing unconventional colours…I also like colours that are timeless and not seasonal.” That’s not all. Dyke’s eclectic 19-piece collection – a blend of styles from a mixture of sources and time periods with a shared theme that create cohesiveness, is another collection that should find favour throughout the region and would sit ever so comfortably in any quaint boutique anywhere in the world. We’d also advise film producers Mark Hart and Storm Saulter to take a closer look.