An Eight-Year Ortanique reduction on-the-Mile
We’d like to believe that the whimsical décor that sets “Cuisine of the Sun”, located in Coral Gables at Ortanique on the Mile, apart from Miami’s other stylish eateries, was influenced by tales of gracious, ever so-lavish Jamaica living shared with chef Cindy Hutson and partner Delius Shirley by culinary doyenne Norma Shirley, and that Cindy’s “Cuisine of the Sun,” which has shined its way into the hearts and stomachs of the discerning set, will always bear testimony to the range and possibilities of our cuisine.
Ortanique, which on July 1 celebrated its eighth year of operation, offers diners not just a taste of the Caribbean (for why on earth would one fly to Miami for that?) but Caribbean cuisine with a fresh, light sensibility in the laissez-faire setting of the region.
That Ortanique on the Mile is not your traditional restaurant is evident by the chic set positioned ever so nonchalantly at the ample bar enjoying the award-winning Mojitos and hoping that a table will soon become free. Ortanique is, you see, as sensuous as the islands and in the intimacy of a setting akin to dining four-poster-bed style, it seems almost sacrilegious to feign indifference to island delicacies like ceviches, salads, bouillabaisse, meats, fish and exquisite sweet plates.
Chef/Patron Cindy Hutson, a self-taught chef who developed a passion for cooking at the age of nine, tells SunDay Cuisine of how “inspired and amused” she was by the “Original” television culinary genius of the “Galloping Gourmet” and “Chef Tell”. “I would emulate their creations on Saturday afternoons,” she reveals.
Her culinary interests were further piqued in her teen years when she was exposed to Italian and Portuguese cuisine through her best friend’s father, a successful restaurateur from New Jersey. After leaving New Jersey to head for the sunny skies of Miami, she honed her skills as a sport-fishing captain and mate on a 36-foot Bertram Yacht. Those years of fishing gave her master classes in handling and preparing many ocean delicacies.
Hutson in 1985 dropped anchor and married Jamaican-born Charles Hutson and together they opened Blue Mt Imports, a coffee import company. Her travels back and forth between Jamaica, the Bahamas, Barbados, Martinique, The US Virgin Islands and Mexico introduced her to the possibilities of ‘Island’ cuisine.
In late 1993 Hutson met a new partner, Delius Shirley (son of Norma Shirley). It was Shirley who convinced her to go into the restaurant business with him and in November 1994 they opened “Norma’s on the Beach”. Norma’s on the Beach was soon after touted as “the best Caribbean restaurant in South Florida” by publications such as USA Today, New York Times, London Times, Chicago Tribune and Ocean Drive magazines. In 1996 they were awarded the coveted “5 Star Diamond Award” for the fabulous dining at Norma’s on the Beach.
In 1996 Black Entertainment Television (BET) mogul Robert Johnson dined at Norma’s on the Beach and was so impressed with the restaurant, the menu and the execution of tasty island cuisine that he hired Hutson and Shirley to consult on two new restaurant concepts “BET on Jazz” in Washington DC and “Soundstage” in Disney World. It was Johnson who financed Hutson’s new “Cuisine of the Sun” at Ortanique Coral Gables. The upscale Coral Gables location was her new home, opening in July 1999.
Hutson flourished in her larger surroundings (120 seats) delving into South American, Asian, Caribbean and American fusion cuisine. Again she was noticed with famed critic John Mariani awarding “Best New Restaurant 1999”- Esquire Magazine, “Exceptional”- Miami Herald, “Top 20 Restaurants” from Florida Trend, “Best New Restaurant”- Bon Appetit, “Americas Top Tables”. In 2005-2006 Ortanique received Five Star Diamond Awards consecutively, Zagats Extraordinary rating, “Top Female Chef of Las Vegas” by American Chefs Association and continued to receive Wine Spectators Award of Excellence.
The couple, refusing to rest on their laurels, opened two other concepts: “Copra”, Baltimore MD and “Bogwalk”, Destin, FL.
When asked if she was spreading herself too thin Hutson, replied “This culinary travel is what I thrive on, teaching other chef hopefuls about our earth’s bounties and its edible history.Their indigenous ingredients regionally prepared.” What more could an artist ask for? What more indeed!
Post eighth anniversary celebrations, Hutson and Shirley are currently enjoying some ‘down time’ at Jamaica Inn.