‘Taste of resilience’
JOL Food Awards celebrates culinary industry comeback
Amid Jamaica’s determined trek toward recovery following last October’s passage of the devastating Hurricane Melissa, the country has been forced to show a remarkable amount of grit. This is especially true of the local food industry.
For Minister of Agriculture Floyd Green, it meant the theme of the Jamaica Observer Table Talk Food Awards — ‘Resilience’ — was particularly timely.
“I think it’s great that the food awards are celebrating our farmers. There would be no food without our farmers and they have shown that they are the most resilient people in the world. They have bounced back really strongly from Hurricane Melissa and we are seeing it tonight,” he said.
Green was speaking on the lawns of East King’s House where the sold-out event was held on June 25th.
Losses from Hurricane Melissa, which was particularly hard on western Jamaica, were estimated at $1.952 trillion. Of that amount, losses in the agriculture sector accounted for $29 billion with 1,251,410 livestock animals killed and 41,390 hectares of farmland affected. More than 70,000 farmers were impacted.
Significant losses were sustained in the coffee, banana, dairy, vegetable and tuber industries, leading to shortages and increased prices. However, less than a year later, the industry is recovering steadily.
In what one attendee described as an ‘indomitable’ display, considering the circumstances, the entrance to the food awards was decorated with a bounty of fresh fruit and vegetables, ackee, eggs, June plums, jackfruit, mangoes, bunches of banana, avocados, and pineapples.
It was reminiscent of a traditional fruit stall and patrons, delighted at the display, picked the booth clean as they left the venue.
Former caterer and long-time Food Awards attendee Michelle Bingham-Williams was among those who were impressed with the innovative entryway.
“As I walk through… and see all of these fruits and vegetables [I just think] we are resilient. You know they say ‘tun you hand and make fashion?’ Whatever little we have we always go and make things, we are a resilient set of people,” she said.
Bingham-Williams intends to continue being a regular guest at the food awards.
“There is just so much to learn, there’s always something new or somebody that is doing something fabulous,” she gushed.
As event conceptualiser Novia McDonald Whyte explained, as food awards judges explored Jamaica in the weeks and months following the hurricane they were consistently met with restaurateurs doing their best to move forward and the theme emerged organically.
“Bent but never broken; so the theme of resilience, it was a no-brainer. To look around our country and, as the rain fell, to see the grass coming up, to see the foliage, to see us springing up, to see us really rising to the occasion,” she explained.
Many patrons shared McDonald Whyte’s sentiment.
“I’m really happy that they are focusing on sustainability and resilience, seeing what happened last year with the hurricane and knowing that we do have to feed ourselves and make sure that we are a country that can sustain ourselves as well,” said first-time attendee Kari Davis.
Retirement coach Patricia Reid-Waugh was in agreement with the laser-focus on resilience.
“Jamaica has been through a lot and I think all of us realise that we have to take steps to make sure we are prepared,” she said.
Attendees who spoke with the Observer shared Jamaican meals that they believe represent resilience. The most mentioned meal was ackee and salt fish with sprint superstar Asafa Powell numbering among the many who chose the national dish as their symbol of grit.
Throughout the glitzy awards night, those recognised included Chef Jose Andres who was presented with the Humanitarian Award. He is the brains behind World Central Kitchen which provided hot meals to Jamaicans for weeks after Hurricane Melissa.
Meanwhile, the Community Resilience Award went to Peter Scudamore of The Pelican Grill and the Resilience Award to Robyn Fox of Café EITS.
Here is the complete list of winners of the night by category:
Global Culinary Ambassador Award — Chef Andre Fowles
Exceptional Service Award — Christina Walter, AC Hotel
The entrance to this year’s Food Awards was a cornucopia of produce, grown by Jamaica’s resilient farmers. Naphtali Junior
Mixologists of Distinction Awards — Sheldon Spencer, Orane Edwards, John Stephens, Brian Beechamp, Randeen Thomas and the mixologists at Pure Ultra Lounge
Community Resilience Award — Peter Scudamore (The Pelican Grill)
Resilience Award — Robyn Fox (Café EITS)
Humanitarian Award — Chef Jose Andres For World Central Kitchen
Lifetime Achievement Award — Rainforest Caribbean
Chairman’s Award — Usain Bolt’s Tracks & Records
Best New Food Item — CHEW (Zoë Dawkins)
Best New Beverage —Worthy Park Rum Mixes (Wisynco)
Best Bar Experience — RAWBAR Jamaica, Kingston
Best Wine & Food Experience — Uncorked Too
Best Innovative Menu Offerings — One Park Restaurant and Lounge
Best Place For Vegetarian/Plant-Based — Stush in the Bush
Best Place For Outstanding Jamaican Food — Sonia’s Homestyle Cooking and Natural Juices
Best Ethnic Restaurant — Mystic Thai
Best Sunday Spot (Kington) — Jamaica Pegasus Hotel
Best Sunday Spot (outside Kingston) — The Wharf Estate Clarendon
Best Café Experience — Café Blue
Best Kept Secret — Pure Ultra Lounge
Outstanding Service — Fromage Bistro
TEF Gastronomy Award: Jamaican Restaurant with Outstanding Gastronomy Experience —Stush in the Bush
TEF Gastronomy Award: Hidden Gem — Pretty Close
Restaurateurs of the Year — Lisa-Gaye & Kirk Chin, Karina Mahbubani
Global Ambassador Award — Nadine Burie.