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News
with Christopher Reckord  
April 15, 2009

Wine – the last affordable luxury?

Recent reports have shown that wine consumption has improved slightly in these hard times, though the average amount spent on a bottle has gone down as consumers search for deals and more value in the market.

One can have healthy debate on why this increase in consumption has occurred: one thought is the old adage that just as people drink when times are good, they also drink in order to drown their sorrows when times are bad. Another thought is simply this: wine is one of those luxuries that is still affordable, cheaper than a week in a fine spa resort, an exotic car or a new yacht.

Value wines

These days the wine media is chock-full of lists of ‘Value Wines’ in every category possible. Value wines, as opposed to low-priced wines, can be loosely defined as those wines that taste like wines double or triple their price and offer the consumer loads of value for the money. I decided to host a tasting event with our wine-tasting crew, and we asked all the importers to send a bottle of red and white that was sold here in Jamaica for less than J$1,500.00, but tasted like wines that are more expensive.

How much is too much?

With 10 different wines for our consumption and contemplation, great discussion ensued over our chosen price point. Most of the wine enthusiasts, who included a number of attorneys, diplomats and business persons, debated prices paid for their everyday wine consumption versus what they would spend on a bottle for a special occasion. After hearing various reasons why they thought the price was too high or just right, I asked this question: “Had you been in the USA, say in Florida, and you went out to buy a bottle of wine, what price range would you be looking at?” This brought on another spate of discussions, good questions and deliberation. If we took an average of the price point that most say they would buy wine for, we would be looking at US$9.00. I then asked for us to assume that we had to take this back to Jamaica and pay full duties on this bottle, we would end up at approximately Ja$1600.00, so my decision to set a barrier at J$1500 now was more or less accepted. The group proceeded to taste through all the wines we had received from 1876 Wine Imports, Caribbean Producers Jamaica, Lascelles Wines and Spirits, Wines and Bar(Sean Gonzales), and Wray and Nephew.

The Wines

Here is the list of wines, in the order that we tasted them (not the ideal order, but some brought their wines too late) and a few of the thoughts expressed.

1: Delheim Sauvignon Blanc / Chenin Blanc 2007, South Africa (1876 Imports) – A great wine that most persons enjoyed. The crispiness of the Sauvignon Blanc and the fruit of the Chenin Blanc worked well together to create a refreshing and easily enjoyable wine.

2: Baron Philippe de Rothschild Chardonnay 2007, France (Wray & Nephew) – This wine displayed typical Chardonnay flavours of tropical fruits and apricot, with a full-bodied palate.

3: La di Motte Pinot Grigio Veneto IGT – 2007, Italy (Wine & Bar) – Straw yellow colour with lively highlights, this wine has a soft palate with well-balanced acidity, while the elegant bouquet is showing typical varietal aromas with hints of hay. This was a favourite of persons who enjoyed old-world style – subtle, earthy, elegant wines.

4: Fat Bastard Chardonnay 2006, France (CPJ) – a powerful nose with vanilla and toast notes, as the name might suggest, this is a big full-bodied wine with a fresh citrus finish. All the lovers of big oaked wines enjoy this one.

5 : Bains Way Shiraz / Mourvedre 2005, South Africa (1876 Imports) – an easy drinking wine with soft tannins and nutty aromas. No fuss, just pour and drink; a good start to our list of red wines.

6: Oomoo GSM (Granache, Shiraz, Mourvedre) 2005, Australia (Lascelles) – Elegant tannins with lingering savoury notes with dark berry and chocolate flavours. Following the extraordinary success of Oomoo Shiraz (see below), Hardy’s have brought three extrovert varietals together to produce a stylish new wine. An assembly of Grenache, Shiraz and Mourvedre, grown to mature vines in McLaren Vale, some up to 70 years old. Spicy, fruit-driven characters are the hallmark of this wine, which is not dominated by any one varietal, expressing all three. Seasoned oak is used to let Oomoo’s primary fruit profiles speak for themselves. A well-balanced wine that had its owning loyal following.

7: Domaine Chiroulet, VdP Cotes De Gascogne, 2006, France (Wines & Bar) – A very interesting Bordeaux blend – Merlot dominant at 50 per cent. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc 30 per cent. Tanat 20 per cent. This wine needs some air time before serving it. All the lovers of medium to full-bodied old-world style wines came back for more.

8: Oomoo Shiraz 2006, Australia (Lascelles) – Oomoo was among the first Thomas Hardy labels, created at the original winery around Bankside, on the banks of the river Torrens just west of Adelaide. In its day a rich robust red, Oomoo was relaunched to celebrate the 150th Anniversary of Hardy Wines. This multi award-winning Shiraz has been widely acclaimed as one of the great value red wine buys in Australia and internationally, receiving hugely flattering reviews. One wine writer said “Top 100, almost embarrassingly good value”.

9: Baron Philippe de Rothschild Cabernet Sauvignon 2007, France (Wray & Nephew) – This is a straightforward easy, drinking style of Cabernet Sauvignon with ripe blackberry flavours and an earthy finish. It’s made by the very same people that produce the famous wines of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild in Bordeaux so you know that the pedigree is there.

10: Fat Bastard Shiraz, 2006, France (CPJ) – the Winemaker says that this wine is rich and dense with complex aromas of blackberries, licorice and vanilla. Tannins are ripe and delicate. The first time I tried this wine I was not really moved, but one vintage later I am taking note. Our full-bodied wine lover enjoyed this one a lot.

We do understand the economic times, so a great big ‘THANK YOU’ to all the importers who participated in our Value Wine-tasting ‘experiment’. Cheers! Now go forth and try a few of these wines.

Chris Reckord is an independent wine consultant who operates DeVine Wine Services with his wife Kerri-Anne. Its mission is to improve wine appreciation through wine education and events. Both are members of the Society of Wine Educators and the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. Please send your questions and comments to creckord@gmail.com .

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